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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.